Windfall Harbor, June 19-21, 2015

 

Windfall Harbor

After a brief stop in Petersburg for cell and internet connections, we are going to Windfall Harbor located at the end of Seymour Canal because:  1) it is beautiful and last time we only saw it in the rain and fog;  and 2) Pack Creek Bear Observatory is here and in 2012 we watched a mother grizzly teach her two young cubs to dig for clams on shore just yards from our boat. 

Today, the sun is shining and we are surrounded by snowcapped mountains that we didn’t see last time as they were enshrouded in a torrent of rain.  After anchoring we arranged by radio (no cell phone coverage here) with the Tongass National Forest Ranger to go on shore tomorrow morning at 9 AM. Then it was time to launch our dinghy and putter the periphery of the tree lined bowl in search of wildlife.  Eagles are everywhere, perched in the trees, their white heads bobbing like golf balls driven into the forest.  On shore, we immediately spot a grizzly but I don't have my camera.  No matter, this is a good omen and we'll see plenty of bears tomorrow.

We are the sole boat here and the only other people are the three rangers who live in tents on the small island adjacent to us – 10 days on, 4 days off back in Juneau - and we revel in the silence when suddenly gun shots ring out.  We see splashing in the water and conclude the rangers – who surely are bored with no cell phone or internet, are shooting their rifles into the water for entertainment.  We hail them on the radio and a ranger answers but we lose the connection.  The shooting stops after one more round.  So much for solitude in the middle of nowhere.

The next day we motor to shore and tie the dinghy to a pulley system.  Once we are out of the boat  the line is let out to keep the dinghy away from shore and the bears.  No food is allowed onto shore either – this is a hardship for me.   The rangers, two gals in their 20’s with said rifles, lead us to a large grassy viewing area from which to watch the bears.  We ask them about the shooting last night and they deny any shooting ever occurred  (good, admit nothing) stating that the splashing was seals in the bay and the pops were the seals’ tails hitting the water.  Yeah right, and when we hear gun shots in Detroit or Seattle, that’s just me cracking my gum. 

We sit and watch for bears in the grassy knoll for 2 hours – no bears.  We do see two Sitka deer.  We hike up the mountain through a lush rain forest, dry now due to the drought, with beautiful thick undergrowth.  We see evidence of bears, lots of scat, and climb the stairs to an elevated bear watch.  No bears - but it was a great 3 mile workout.

Evening in Windfall Harbor

We spend another night anchored here just to enjoy the scenic beauty– but, no bears… and no seals slapping their tails in the water.