Saturday, August 11, 2012

Summer in Juneau, July 13- July 22, 2012


This is our favorite Alaskan city – an assessment partly attributed to our longest period of non-stop warm and sunny weather we have thus far enjoyed and  only slightly influenced by the presence of a Starbucks and Costco.  Juneau is the third largest city in Alaska and the state capitol.  It also has the worst internet service we have experienced (hence no blogging), as well as a north south road that leads to nowhere – it simply stops on both ends.   You can’t go east - there are only mountains - you can go west but only by boat.  This explains the Palin fiasco and evokes a bit of sympathy from me - how can you know anything about the world's geopolitical scene when your own town is a dead end?  Nevertheless, the road that does exist takes you to some of the most scenic vistas, beautiful glaciers, and spectacular mountains we have encountered. 
Salmon Going in for Smoking

Our boat is moored in the heart of downtown,  at the foot of Mt Roberts, and sandwiched between the cruise ships - as many as 6 a day - and there is always one right in front of our boat -  which is now starting to feel  like a bathtub toy.   There is also a fish processing facility at the top of the ramp from the dock and every day thousands of salmon are unloaded from the fishing boats and thrown into a conveyer belt that feeds them into the processing plant and then out the door as smoked salmon.  And the smoked salmon?   Let me just say that I will be shipping all my future smoked  salmon needs from Juneau.


Mendenhall Glacier
Our first stop is the Mendenhall Glacier, an inland glacier that has an enormous waterfall and great hiking.  In fact, we did a fair amount of hiking during our entire stay, including a 2,200 foot hike up Mt Roberts on some rough terrain with muddy washouts on parts of the trail causing us to scramble up and over tree roots.  Luckily we had our trusty dog, Zippy, to lead the way, he is clearly part mountain goat.  We decided against the hike back down and opted for the luxury of the tram – a decision Zippy clearly endorsed.
View From Mt. Roberts
(We Hiked All the Way)

Water Falls at Mendenhall Glacier
Of course the highlight of our stay was the arrival of the Moores clan, sans Peter, with the addition of a Dickie – Brian.  They were there with us for two whirlwind days of activities before we set sail south back toward Ketchikan.  We made the most of our time including a helicopter ride to Hebert Glacier for dogsledding.  Now I have always had a certain antipathy for helicopters -  a single blade that takes you straight up in the air seems to defy gravity more directly than the gradual ascent of an airplane.  But I was comforted on the drive to the airport when our van driver assured us of the capable and highly experienced pilots we would have – retired air force pilots and commercial airline pilots.  Ah yes, the crusty, crew-cut  ex-air force lieutenant, maybe even a general, with a twinkle in his eyes as he expertly, for the millionth time, takes control of the cockpit and safely deposits us on the face of a glacier.  Unfortunately, that was not our pilot.  When we boarded,  we found a 12 year-old girl with a pony tail at the controls. I quizzed her on her air force training, none, but she seemed capable, mainly because I lived to write this.


Looking as Skeptical as I Feel
The dog camp, in a bowl of the glacier, at 2,000 feet , was sunny and pristine.  The dogs were harnessed and eager, based on the barking jumping up and down, to get going.  It was an hour ride with many stops for the dogs who were getting hot from the sun.  Most interesting, the Iditarod dogs are trained to poop as they run…, hmmm, if only Zippy could be so trained.
Hebert Glacier
And the Winner Is....




We milked Juneau for all it had, superb fish, good tourist shopping and even a great haircut/color job by, none other than,  Sarah's stylist - and you have to admitt, she does have great hair.  But,  it's time to take the Moores' clan to the rawer parts of Alaska and have some adventures of the wild life kind.


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